The tradition in my part of England was that the Christmas Tree was not set up until Christmas eve. Candles were clipped into tin candleholders which fastened to the fresh, green tree, and they were lit on Christmas Eve, and occasionally on Christmas Day , only, when the family assembled to sing carols round the tree. (This would be considered a terribly dangerous practice, nowadays. Christmas trees have a very high oil content, and can go up like tinder: especially when the tree is very dry. The littl e electric lights are much safer.)

Sprigs of holly and ivy were tucked behind the tops of pictures and mirrors, and over the tops of doors. A bunch of mistletoe was hung high in the hallway, and it was the tradition for a man to claim a kiss from any woman whom he happened to catch "under the mistletoe". (Christmas hosts always had a habit of standing directly under the mistletoe to welcome guests!) Mistletoe was connected with the Druid fertility rituals.

Each of these customs probably goes back to pagan times. Bringing the greenery into the house was traditionally connected with the winter solstice and the shortest day in the year. It was supposed to represented the continuity of green things throughout the winter, until the return of Spring and the growing season again. It is still considered bad luck in England to take the Christmas greenery back out of the house after Christmas and throw it away. Otherwise "out would go all your luck for the coming year." We would burn ours on the dying embers of the fire on twelfth night, when all the Christmas decorations were taken down. Originally, I think you were supposed to keep it until Spring cleaning Day, on the first day of Spring (21st March!).

Mulled Ale or wine would be drunk last thing on Christmas eve. Ale was mulled by heating a poker in the fire until very hot, and then plunging it into your (pewter) jug (or tankard) of ale. Sometimes spices and the puree of baked apples was added for special occasions. This was called lambswool. Lots of variations on lambswool can be made. Our family loves it when made with hard cider (if obtainable), or even apple juice with a dash of cranberry. Ginger ale is good, too, with a pinch of ground ginger added with the other spices.

4 pints ale
2-3 large apples.
1 cinnamon stick
3 cloves
sugar to taste

Bake the unpeeled, cored apples in 350 degree oven for about 40 minutes, until very soft. (Or microwave for about 4 minutes, turning occasionally). Press down on the outsides of the appleskins with the back of a fork to squeeze out all the pulp. Discard the skins and fluff the puree with a fork.

Meanwhile, heat the ale with the cinnamon stick and cloves. Add the apple puree and sugar if needed. If desired, it can be put through the blender, but remove the cinnamon and cloves first.

Lambswool is also good at Halloween.

3 large oranges
1 bottle sparkling wine or hard cider
1/2 cup Blackcurrant syrup
1/2 t ground mace
1/2 t ground ginger
1 cinnamon stick
9 cloves
Gin or vodka to taste (optional)
sugar to taste
2 or more cups fruit juice (optional)

Stick 3 cloves in each orange and place the oranges whole in a pie pan in a 350 degree oven for about 20 minutes, until the oranges are hot, and the oils in the skins and in the cloves have been released. Then slice them in a bowl, because the juices wil l run. You can hold them still with a carving fork. Meanwhile, heat the wine or cider (add fruit juice here if using) with the mace and cinnamon. Add the blackcurrant syrup and the oranges and cloves and continue heating. Sweeten to taste, then add the gin or vodka. Note: this mulled wine is very concentrated, unlike our modern-day punch, especially if it has been fortified by the addition of the gin, which gives it a wonderful kick. It is very comforting on a cold day, but do try it in small glasses first: it is pot ent. If you are making it for a party, or simply find it too powerful, add fruit juice. Diluted frozen lemonade is good. 7-up is good, so is orange juice. I have even added a fruity herbal iced tea! You can add up to the approximate equivalent of the quantity of wine in the recipe.

1 glass rum
3 glasses water
brown sugar to taste
walnut-sized piece of butter

Heat all ingredients together in small pan. Serve hot in expresso cups. Serves 4.

This was my great grandmother's favorite "warmer" on cold, snowy evenings, in the 1890's.

by Jacqueline Millicent Hayes from "A Victorian Christmas" http://www.victoriana.com/Christmas

serves 6

2 cups whipping cream
1 cup half-and-half
6 large egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1 teaspoon nutmeg
6 tbls dry sherry

Blend cream and half-and-half in pan and bring to a simmer. ..separately, whisk egg yolks and sugar to combine, then gradually whisk hot cream mixture into yolk mixture. Return to same pan. Stir over medium-low heat (do not boil) about 4 minutes until it thickens. Strain into bowl....cool slightly and stir in nutmeg...Divide into glasses (warm or cold) and stir in 1 Tablespoon of sherry into each, if desired. extra nutmeg to sprinkle over, then serve.

The traditional, classic Yuletide hot mulled cider drink.

4 litres apple cider or juice
1 orange, chopped
1 lime, chopped
1 lemon, chopped
4 cinnamon sticks
1 inch-square piece of fresh ginger
1 t. cloves, allspice and/or star anise

Heat all and simmer on low for an hour, then serve to cold, caroling folks.